Page 36 of A Kiss in Kashmir

Sharmila was engrossed in her phone, scrolling through, looking for something. She found it. “Look—look at this painting I made years ago. I remember Vikram telling me about a place he used to visit, a yellowish building with what I thought was a pink awning and tall flowers growing in front of it. In fact, they are pink flowers, see there, and it’s the flagpole that is yellow. I couldn’t quite remember what he said it was.”

Suraj said sweetly, “Gurudwara Chhevin Patshahi was one of his favorite places to offer prayers. He wasn’t very religious, but if there was one place he believed in, it was this. Please come in. We will offer our prayers and then stay for the langar, the blessed meal held after prayers, before we head to the Hagoon Valley.”

All of them entered the serene yellow room of the gurudwara. The priest welcomed them and invited them to sit for a while and absorb the blessings of the divine temple.

They all covered their heads with the colorful scarves provided by the temple staff, then stepped into the main room.

Alina, George, and Suraj sat together at the back of the room as Sharmila went up to the manji sahib, a raised platform that held the Sikh holy book. It was draped in shining pink silk. She bowed and touched her forehead to the floor, offering prayers of gratitude for her family, all the blessings that had been showered on her, and—she admitted it there—for George. She was grateful for him, his presence, his gentleness—and what she could only feel in her heart, the deep connection that she felt coming from him. Then she went back and sat next to the group.

“I want to go outside and check out the gardens,” Alina whispered, and Suraj got up as well. The two went up to the manji sahib, prayed, and left.

“Do you want to go up and offer prayers, George?” Sharmila asked. He seemed usually quiet.

“Our time together is coming to an end, isn’t it? You’ll be leaving in a few weeks,” he said softly, then went to pray.

Before Sharmila could think about what he said, her phone buzzed. Alina texted her mother to come join them outside for the langar.

It’s so delicious, Ma, There’s paneer and roti and dal. It is soooooo good.

George appeared at her side, and they were about to go outside when the priest came up to them. “Any jodi, any couple that comes here together, always stays together. May you both be blessed to be together forever.”

They both stood still as the priest continued to bless them. He slipped his hand into hers and squeezed it. They stood there quietly for a few moments letting his blessing sink in but not saying a word out loud. Then they left to go out, and she let go of his hand.

“Come here, Ma. Come eat with us,” Alina called out to them when she saw them.

As soon as they finished the langar, they were on their way to Betaab Valley in George’s Jeep. Alina talked nonstop with Suraj, not just about Vikram but about life in the valley, the food, the schools, the birds, the trees. It was as though she wanted to know every single detail and couldn’t wait to learn everything about what she now thought of as her homeland.

They arrived at Betaab Valley just before the tourist buses. George rushed them all to a ticket counter to make sure they got in before the hordes made their way there.

Suraj said as he purchased tickets, “Ever since that movie, Betaab, came out, they’ve made this sort of a paid park. Now they charge out-of-state and foreign tourists for tickets to go in. But they won’t charge me because I am local. And she is my niece, so they won’t charge for Alina either.”

“I’m a local now.” Alina giggled. “I like that.”

“I’m so happy to see you like this. This is just what I wanted,” Sharmila said, but Alina had already dashed off behind Suraj, excited to see what was in store.

A local man with white doves, fluffy rabbits, and small sheep called out to them to take pictures with his animals.

“Stop, they are so cute.” Alina was thrilled when he placed the doves on her shoulders, and she handed her phone to Suraj to take a picture. Suraj delighted in seeing his niece light up but cautioned her.

“Of course, there is no ticket, but this photo-taking is not free, not even for locals. This is how he makes his living. If we want pictures, we all have to pay.”

As they came to where they could see the open space of the valley, they all stopped and stared in awe. With the mighty Lidder River rushing down the center, the large snow-capped mountains all around, willows and pine trees dancing in the winds, and wildflowers sprouting all around them, it was magical.

“Ma, this looks like a mini-Switzerland. Remember, from our trip there? It looks so similar.”

George said, “I’ve lived here for many years and today I’m seeing this with fresh eyes. There is so much here to… fall in love with.”

They came to a small bridge with bright green balustrades, leading towards a narrow path. “We have family that lives on the other side. Would you like to visit them?” Suraj asked. Before anyone else could answer, Alina was already running ahead.

“Yes. Let’s go.”

“I don’t think I have ever seen her like this,” Sharmila said to George as they walked together. A child on a bike suddenly rode in front of Sharmila, and George reached out quickly and pulled her back. She thanked him politely, and she held onto his hand and this time, she didn’t let it go.

A few moments later, as they walked through the flush of green bushes and colorful flowers, they came to a large wooden house.

A light-eyed woman dressed in a bright blue pheran greeted them at the door. “We are honored that you could come. Suraj told me that you will come. I am their cousin, and this is our humble home,” Archana Pandit said, welcoming them into the house.

The large room with a carved wooden ceiling smelled of freshly ground spices and jasmine incense. Tea was brewing on the small stove. Suraj made introductions and everyone sat on the floor, which was covered thickly in multicolored carpets.

---