Page 40 of Riding the Waves

“Let’s go further this time. The waves are bigger out there.”

“You’re going to get over-confident on me very quickly, aren’t you?”

“I just realised you were right – I can surf. I might even be really good at it.”

“Cocky too,” he said and sprayed her with water.

“Remember how we used to race each other in?”

“Yeah.” He shifted to lie on his board and they paddled out side by side, then turned to face the shore together.

“This one then?” Amy watched the wave gathering behind them. “Last one to the shore is a loser.”

Damian grinned. “I can see where Billy gets his mean streak from.”

“Hey!” She tried to look outraged, but Damian warned her that the wave was coming and she followed his lead in windmilling her arms through the water.

He beat her in, of course, but she managed to stand up again and felt pretty confident doing so. She was fairly proud of how it was all coming back to her.

“Dad!” Marty called, standing in the shallows. “Can you help us dig a trench from our hole to the water?”

“Okay.” He looked at Amy. “Are you coming out?”

“I might have a couple more goes. I’m just getting the hang of it.”

It was total bliss being out in the wonderfully cool water with the sun warming her cheeks. The breeze was perfect and the waves were plentiful. Each time she rode a wave in she told herself she’d just go out one more time. It was addictive and utterly thrilling.

“Did you see me?” she asked Damian and Marty when she caught them watching her ride a wave into the shallows. They stood side by side, ankle deep in the water. “I’m actually not bad.”

“You’re good,” Marty said. “I saw you standing up lots of times.”

“The kids are keen for ice creams,” Damian told her. “Do you want to come with us?”

“Yes.” She glanced out at the sunlight sparkling on the rippling water behind her. “I’ll just go one last time.” She beamed at Damian. “Is that okay?”

“Yeah.” His hands rested casually at his hips. “Make it a good one. You have an audience.”

“I know you’re trying to get in my head so you can watch me wipe out!”

He waggled his eyebrows. “Just hurry up. We want ice cream.”

Each time she’d been going a little further out – her confidence building steadily. As the wind picked up, the waves were coming in stronger and faster, and there were way more surfers in the water now than when they’d arrived an hour ago. Presumably that meant a lot of trade at the surf shack, which equated to a good day for Damian.

Adrenaline pulsed in Amy’s veins as soon as she spotted the wave she wanted to catch. There were two or three building one behind the other and a couple of guys readied their boards at the same time as she did. Her arms were beginning to ache from all the paddling, but she mustered all her remaining energy, aware that it was her last ride for the day, and also that Damian’s eyes would be on her.

Hurtling along with the wave she was energised and exhilarated. Hopping up to stand felt natural now, and she smiled to herself as she adjusted her centre of gravity to ride up and down the wave. It was the perfect last wave and she felt pretty smug when she sought out Damian on the sand. A warm glow spread out from her chest at the way his eyes were fixed on her.

Since she’d been on such a roll, looking towards the shore was a stupid move. Of course she wobbled and wiped out, but she laughed as she crashed sideways into the water. She’d done well until then, so it wasn’t completely embarrassing. She emerged from the waist-deep water smiling at the thought of Damian teasing her over it.

Except when she caught his gaze he looked anything but amused. His mouth was moving, but she couldn’t make out what he was saying over the rush of waves hitting the shore.

Some part of her brain told her there was probably another wave about to wash over her, but that didn’t warrant the fear in Damian’s features.

The roar of the water increased and she braced as she turned to look over her shoulder.

Someone shouted something she couldn’t make out.

Damian was shouting too.

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