expression on your face that you didn't know that." "No," I said.
 
 "Perhaps your grandmere Catherine didn't know
 
 either. Well, enough about all that. You know the rest
 
 anyway," he said quickly. "Would you like to walk
 
 through the French Quarter? There's Bourbon Street
 
 just ahead of us," he added, nodding.
 
 "Yes."
 
 We got out and he took my hand to stroll down
 
 to the corner. Almost as soon as we made the turn, we
 
 heard the sounds of music coming from the various
 
 clubs, bars, and restaurants, even this early in the day. "The French Quarter is really the heart of the
 
 city," my father explained. "It never stops beating. It's
 
 not really French, you know. It's more Spanish. There
 
 were two disastrous fires here, one in 1788 and one in
 
 1794, which destroyed most of the original French
 
 structures," he told me. I saw how much he loved
 
 talking about New Orleans and I wondered if I would
 
 ever come to admire this city as much as he did. We walked on, past the scrolled colonnades and
 
 iron gates of the courtyards. I heard laughter above us
 
 and looked up to see men and women leaning over the
 
 embroidered iron patios outside their apartments,
 
 some calling down to people in the street. In an arched
 
 doorway, a black man played a guitar. He seemed to
 
 be playing for himself and not even notice the people
 
 who stopped by for a moment to listen.
 
 "There is a great deal of history here," my
 
 father explained, pointing. "Jean Lafitte, the famous
 
 pirate, and his brother Pierre operated a clearinghouse
 
 for their contraband right there. Many a
 
 swashbuckling adventurer discussed launching an