“Yeah. Because you got those muscles from surfing.”
They saw the next wave coming and immediately got into position. Her arms and legs burned with fatigue, but she paddled her heart out and popped up on the board. She felt her weight shift and thought she was going to go down again but regained her balance. The board sailed over the water, carrying her like a bird flying through the air. It was exhilarating! Surreal. She was surfing! As the shore grew closer, she heard Brett yell, “Woot!”
She turned to look at him and almost lost her balance but recovered. They shared a smile that inflated her chest. A few seconds later, the wave crashed and sent her into the water, but it was only up to her waist, and she walked the rest of the way to the beach.
“You did it!” Brett exclaimed, kicking up the water as he walked toward her at an angle.
“Did you see me? I was awesome!”
“You’re a warrior, Kira. You said you were going to surf, and you did.”
“Thank you for teaching me. I was just humoring you when I came out here today. I never really wanted to surf. Now, I think it’s amazing. I can’t remember when I’ve had so much fun.” She turned her face up to the sun. “Or when I’ve spent this much time outdoors. Or at the beach. It’s beautiful out here.”
His smile stretched across his face. “You can do this practically every day in California. We got nothing but sun and sand.”
There was only one problem with that scenario. She was a New York girl.