Page 40 of We Thought We Were Invincible
“You gonna go?” Jamie asked, meeting my eyes.
“Huh?”
He gestured to an oncoming wave that looked so perfect I was shocked he hadn't taken it. I kicked myself around and paddled.
It was going to break early, I could tell, so I pushed myself up and planted my feet, letting the water carry me forward. This was what I knew. Not boys or friendships or anything they taught in school. For a few moments, it was all I needed in this world.
It broke over me, the wave barreling for a very short time before collapsing. I jumped off my board before it did and turned just in time to see Jamie, his tanned chest shining in the sun as he spread his arms wide. The wind picked his hair up from his neck and blew it out behind him.
He looked strong, his leg muscles toned from soccer and flexing as he turned his board. His black swim trunks hung low on his hips. I'd thought he was crazy for not wearing a wetsuit or at least a rash guard, but suddenly I was glad.
He fell into his wave as it folded in on itself, his head popping up above the water moments later. I was still holding onto my board with my legs treading water so I swung back up on top and headed back out deep.
We each caught a few more waves. My muscles ached, but I didn't want to stop. Each set grew larger than the last and I knew that as soon as school let out, there'd be many more people out here.
“We should probably head in soon.” Jamie stretched his arms above his head, causing his muscles to contract.
“What?” I snapped my head around to look at him. “Why?”
“Don't you see what's happening here?” He gestured out to sea. “Most everyone else has already gone in. The waves are getting out of control.”
I looked around, noticing for the first time that most of the other surfers were gone or in on the beach. Only two others continued to surf.
Wanting to stay out here as long as possible, I turned around and started swinging my arms through the water. As the wave rolled, I struggled to stay up, my legs wanting to give out beneath me. But I did it. Bailing out of the wave before it took me in close, I paddled back out to where Jamie still sat.
He'd been observing me, his eyes worried.
“Callie girl, come on,” he said.
“Don't call me that.” For some reason, I no longer wanted him using Jay's nickname for me. I just couldn't stand it.
Turning abruptly, I started out, my arms and legs still throbbing and weak from the last wave. This one came in at an angle and I didn't stop. I couldn't even though I knew I should. I knew it as soon as I pushed myself up. My legs shook beneath me as I dropped into the craziest one I'd surfed all day. In seconds, I was caught in the lip of the wave and then flying forward toward the flat water below.
The water muffled my scream as it swallowed me whole. There were very few times I could remember being scared in the ocean. To me, it'd always been something to love, not something to fear.
But as I flipped end over end, struggling to break the surface, a terror gripped my chest. I kicked as hard as my tired legs would let me, trapped and clawing to get out.
I broke through long enough to suck in a breath of air before being pulled back under. As I fought, I lost track of which way was up.
The light,my foggy brain nudged me.That's up.
My board leash snapped and suddenly all I could think was that the board itself was probably broken.
I pulled my head above water again, gasping and sucking in both air and water. Then I was choking and losing sight of the sky as the water closed in around me once again.
A sharp pain shot up my leg, shocking my system, as it crashed against a rock that was hidden at the bottom. My mouth filled with water as I instinctively cried out.
I barely registered the hands on my arms as I was pulled free of the water, my head lolling to one side. Then I was being lifted, limp in someone's arms.
Someone said something to me, but I couldn't make out the words, and then my back hit the sand. I flopped onto my side, my throat burning as I choked out the salty water. I heaved until there was no more. Sucking in quick breaths, I turned to the woman crouching next to me.
“You're okay,” she said, trying to reassure me. “My name is Freya. I'm a nurse.”
She too was in a wetsuit, with her red hair tied on top of her head.
The sound of someone crashing through the shallow water made me turn my head. Freya stepped back as Jamie came into view.
“You really should go get that cut taken care of.” She gestured to my leg, then looked at Jamie as if trying to decide if he'd take me.
