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Finally, after an eternity, the storm began torelent. The wind subsided, and the waves became calm. Relieved passengers emerged from their sheltered corners to enjoy a pleasant evening and a good night’s sleep. But Atticus wasn’t taking any chances. Other than venturing out of his cabin to walk the dog, he lay on his bed, restlessly drowsing and counting the hours until they arrived in Santander. His stomach had received a battering, and he needed to calm it down.

When the purser announced that the Galicia would dock that morning at eight o’clock and their arrival was imminent, Atticus, dressed and ready for the onward journey, slipped out of the cabin to walk on the doggie deck with Ness. With clear weather and good visibility, as they entered the bay of Santander, another dog owner greeted them.

‘Ey up!’ The man’s accent was broad, and with a smile, he pointed out a lighthouse sitting on top of the cliffs. Informing Atticus that it was called Cabo Mayor after the cliffs it was perched on, he then indicated the Palacio de la Magdalena. ‘Aye, the impressive palace is an iconic Spanish landmark,’ he added.

The man introduced himself as Martin from Yorkshire. His dog, a Westie named Fred, made friends with Ness, while Martin told Atticus that he was heading to his apartment in Benidorm with his partner.

They chatted for some time, and Martin explained the benefits of Benidorm and why he liked living there. ‘It’s a popular resort on the Costa Blanca with a right good climate, lovely beaches, and great entertainment and nightlife,’ he said in his Yorkshire tone.

Martin was insistent that Atticus visit. Wanting toknow all about Atticus’s plans, he nodded with approval when Atticus explained that he was heading to Guardamar, south of Alicante, and that it was his first time abroad.

‘Benidorm isn’t far away, about a two-hour drive.’ Martin handed Atticus a business card. ‘Come to the Starlight Show Bar and make sure you ask for me. I run the club with my partner.’

As Atticus fastened Ness’s safety strap and joined Winnie to the line of vehicles leaving the ship, he thought that Martin had seemed a friendly type and decided that he might make a trip to Benidorm. He remembered that Arthur and Jake had included Benidorm on Atticus’s ‘Places to Visit’ schedule in the folder, adding a note that it was a popular resort for British holidaymakers. ‘Perhaps we’ll have a drive there one day,’ Atticus said as he negotiated Winnie slowly down a ramp.

Overhead, the cry of seagulls mingled with the bustle of port activity, and the warmth of an October sun and bright blue skies greeted the new arrivals as port officials took them smoothly through the customs checking area. Atticus felt nervous as he drove on the right-hand side of the road and, once again, whispered thanks to Arthur and Jake for setting up the satnav, which had seamlessly picked up Spanish GPS signals and mapped out the route. With the early start and the torturous sea journey behind them, six hundred miles of open road lay ahead.

Atticus began to feel better. He sucked on an Uncle Joe’s mint ball, which soothed his stomach, and thought of the upcoming itinerary, carefully planned withArthur and Jake’s help. They’d all spent hours studying a map book, deciding that Winnie’s top speed would only manage at most three hundred miles daily. Atticus must be sure to have plenty of stops for coffee and food – and not to forget Ness, as the old dog would need her comfort breaks too.

As they left the port and started the journey, the satnav instructed, ‘At the roundabout, take the second exit onto S-20 heading to Salida Ciudad.’

Atticus smiled.Driving abroad was easy, he told himself.Clara, we’re on our way!

Thanks to the wonders of satellite navigation, he could sit back, listen to instructions, and enjoy the journey. Noting that the mileage was now in kilometres, he glanced at Gonzalo, still perched on the dashboard. The little gnome moved to the vehicle’s motion and appeared to be nodding his head. Atticus reached out to straighten Gonzalo’s walking stick and the flag that announced, ‘Adventure Awaits!’. And as the satnav instructed Atticus to merge onto the A-67 and head towards Burgos, he said, ‘I certainly hope so, Gonzalo.’

Leaving Santander behind, Atticus settled into the journey. The coastal scenery transitioned to lush green hills and peaks, and he began to enjoy the road winding through the Cantabrian Mountains, which offered stunning views of forests and valleys.

‘It reminds me a little of home,’ Atticus told Ness, remembering the fells surrounding Barn Hill Farm. ‘But Iwouldn’t like to be up here in winter,’ he added, noting tall snow poles every few metres.

Occasionally, oncoming vehicles flashed their headlights, and the drivers held up a hand. Atticus was puzzled. There was no mention of this in his folder, and he wondered if it was some sort of Spanish road etiquette they’d missed.

It wasn’t until he’d pulled into a picnic area that he began to understand.

A motorhome with German plates flashed its lights, slowed down, and the driver lowered his window. ‘Very good wheels!’ the driver called out. ‘I like your Westie, an iconic German brand,’ he added, and with a cheery wave, he drove on.

‘Ah, it’s Winnie they’re appreciating,’ Atticus muttered as he poured coffee from his flask and gave Ness a biscuit. He made a mental note to reciprocate whenever he saw a vehicle he admired.

Moving on, Atticus remembered that Arthur had told him to make time for sightseeing. Arthur had studied maps online and made notes for him on places worth visiting. There would be many historic towns and villages along the way, and with this in mind, Atticus took a detour. Following signs to the heart of Burgos, he found a car park beside the River Arlanzón, where a riverside walk allowed him to admire the town’s landmarks.

In the town square, he stood with Ness and gazed around at the meeting place where visitors and locals alike enjoyed the lively atmosphere.

‘Let’s have a coffee,’ he said to Ness, and momentslater, Atticus sat at a table and stared at a menu. He hadn’t a clue what to ask for, as images of blood sausage and suckling lamb lay alongside dishes suggesting cheese and various rice concoctions.

A waiter approached, and Atticus cleared his throat. ‘A café con leche, por favor,’ he said. As the waiter disappeared, Atticus grinned. His practice with Jake on basic Spanish had paid off, and he could confidently order his favourite milky coffee.

‘I think we’ve cracked it,’ Atticus murmured as the waiter returned with his drink. He unwrapped the complimentary biscuit and handed it to Ness.

Strolling through the town along narrow medieval streets, Atticus felt the warmth of the sun and tilted his hat to avoid the glare as he passed museums and theatres, sensing centuries of history all around him. When he reached the Cathedral of St. Mary of Burgos, Atticus stopped to study the architectural masterpiece. Had Ness not been with him, he would have stepped inside and lit a candle for Clara. But unsure of Spanish rules about church-visiting Collies and unwilling to leave Ness behind, he sat on a nearby bench and looked up at the soaring spire and intricate façade.

‘Hey, Clara, just look at me now,’ Atticus whispered. Ness lay her head on his knee, and he absently stroked the dog’s silky fur. ‘The old man is out and about.’

On their walk back to the camper, Atticus was struck by the smell of freshly baked bread. Looking ahead, he saw a sign that read ‘Panadería’. Deciding that it must be a bakery, he was delightedto find an open window displaying a mouth-watering array of crusty baguettes and rustic loaves.

A woman greeted Atticus. ‘Hola,’ she called out.

‘Oh, er… Hola.’ Atticus tapped his hat in acknowledgement and pointed to a soft, pale loaf.

‘Pan de leche?’ The woman smiled and wrapped the milky-coloured bread into a paper bag.