Page 74 of Below the Barrel

I grab a couple of boards and throw them in the back of the Jeep, making sure to pack some water and snacks for later. When I head back inside, Maliah is stirring, her eyes blinking open as she stretches. I lean down to kiss her forehead, and she smiles sleepily at me.

“Morning, princess. Are you ready to face the beast?” I ask, trying to keep my tone light.

She offers me a half-hearted smile, but I can see the worry flickering in her eyes. “I don’t know if I’ll ever be ready,” she admits quietly, sitting up and hugging her knees.

I sit down on the edge of the bed, reaching out to tuck a strand of hair behind her ear. “That’s okay. We’ll take it one step at a time. First, we’re just going to watch, study the waves, and talk to some locals. No pressure to do anything yet.”

She nods but I can tell the idea of even going to Pipeline is weighing on her. I don’t push her any further, knowing she needs time to warm up to the wave on her own. “Come on,” I say gently. “Let's get some breakfast, and then we’ll head out.”

After breakfast,we drive out to Pipeline. It’s still early, but the surf is already picking up, and a few locals are out there carving through the waves like it’s just another day. I park the Jeep and walk down to the beach with Maliah beside me. The sight of Pipeline, even from here, sends a shiver down my spine. The waves are massive, hollow tubes crashing with a demanding force. It’s beautiful, but it’s brutal.

Maliah’s quiet as we sit on the sand, her eyes fixed on the water. I know what’s going through her head because it’s the same thing I went through the first time I faced Pipeline. You look at those waves, and all you can think about is how easily they can take you from this world.

We sit in silence for a while, just watching, studying. The locals out there make it look effortless, but I know better. They’ve spent years mastering this wave, learning every nuance,every ripple in the water. It’s not just about skill—it’s about understanding Pipeline.

After a while, a couple of local surfers come up the beach, one of them I recognize—Kelani, a guy I grew up with, who’s been surfing this break since we were kids.

“Koa Foster,” he says with a chuckle and big grin.

I stand up and we clap hands, pulling each other in for a hug. “Kelani Makana, it’s been a while,” I say, pulling back to smile at him.

“Too long, my friend,” he replies before glancing down at Maliah. “You brought her to the lion’s den, huh?” Kelani says with a grin, his voice thick with the local Pidgin accent.

Maliah tenses beside me, and I can tell his words are hitting her harder than they should. I shoot him a look. “We’re just here to study the waves,” I say firmly. “No need to scare her off before she even gets in the water.”

Kelani chuckles, but his face turns serious as he looks back at Pipeline. “Nah, I’m not trying to scare her. But she needs to know. Pipeline ain’t like the others, braddah. She’ll take you out if you don’t give her respect. We’ve seen it too many times—guys think they’ve got it, and then boom, one bad wipeout and it’s over.”

Maliah’s eyes widen, and I can see the fear creeping back in. I squeeze her hand, trying to ground her. “Kelani, maybe ease up a little,” I say, my tone tight.

He shrugs. “I’m just saying what everyone knows. Pipeline’s killed more surfers than any other wave out here. The reef is sharp, and if you fall wrong, it’s not just a wipeout. It’s your life.”

Maliah’s hand goes cold in mine, and I can feel the tension radiating from her. This is exactly what I didn’t want to happen. Her hearing all the horror stories before she’s even had a chance to get her head straight.

I turn to her, placing a hand on her cheek. “Hey, you don’t have to listen to that, okay? I know it’s scary, but you’ve got this. We’ll take it slow. No one’s rushing you.”

She nods, but I can tell she’s rattled. I shoot Kelani another look, and he raises his hands in mock surrender. “Alright, alright. I’ll shut up. But if she wants some tips, we can help. You’ve been here before, Koa, you know what it takes.”

I nod, grateful that he’s willing to share his experience, but annoyed that he’s made it worse for Maliah. “Thanks, man. We’ll catch up later.”

“Are you visiting your mom soon? You’re all she’s been talking about since she found out you made it on the tour.”

I nod. “Yeah, we’re heading over to hers in a couple days for Christmas. See you there?”

Kelani nods before him and his friend head off down the beach, leaving us alone again. Maliah’s still staring at the water, her face pale. I pull her into my arms, holding her close. “I know that was a lot to hear, but you’re not alone in this, okay? I’m right here with you.”

She closes her eyes and nods, her breathing shallow. We sit like that for a while, her body pressed against mine, the sound of the crashing waves filling the silence between us. I can tell she’s still scared, and I hate seeing her like this, so unsure of herself, so unlike the fierce woman I know she is. She’s quiet, lost in thought, and I know I need to do something to ease her mind before it eats her alive.

I pull out my phone and scroll through my contacts until I land on Gabriel’s name. If there’s anyone who can help snap her out of this, it’s him. He’s tough, but he’s always known how to push us in the right ways.

I click video call and watch as Maliah and I pop up on the screen, waiting for him to answer.

“Yea, what’s up, Koa?”

He looks exhausted, as if he hasn’t slept all night. I can see Zalea asleep on the couch behind him.

“Hey, Coach. I’m out at Pipeline with Maliah, trying to get a feel for the wave before next week's competition. Any pointers?”

Gabriel pauses, his eyes narrowing as he studies the two of us through the screen. I can see the wheels turning in his head, like he’s reading more than just the situation at Pipeline.

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