Page 131 of Ride the Wave

Ethan stops pedalling altogether, straightening his back, his arms dropping to his side. He doesn’t say anything, waiting for Leo to continue. Adriano and I pretend to be busy, but I’m in full meerkat mode: alert and ready to step in if needed.

‘I’m sorry, mate,’ Leo says eventually, his words coming out fast, as though he’s pushing them out along with all the air in his lungs.

His brow furrowed, Ethan stares at him, his mouth in a hard, straight line.

‘I’m sorry about the way I treated you. No excuses, I was a shitty friend. You reached out so many times, even when things were really bad between us, but I ignored your offers of help. One of the biggest mistakes of my life.’

Ethan’s frown deepens. He looks down at the ground.

‘I didn’t like seeing you like that,’ he mutters.

‘I know,’ Leo says.

Inhaling deeply, Ethan brings his eyes back up. ‘It was a long time ago.’

‘Still. I wanted to apologise,’ Leo says firmly. ‘I wasn’t there for you like I should have been.’

Ethan nods. ‘I appreciate that. Thank you.’

Leo holds out his hand. Climbing off the exercise bike, Ethan faces him properly, takes his hand and they shake. The tension in the room eases. With this simple gesture, a heavy weight begins to lift. I look over to Adriano to see he has tears in his eyes.

‘You’ve been looking pretty good out there,’ Leo comments, a smile playing across his lips. ‘Any chance you’ve been practising since you retired?’

Ethan cracks a laugh. ‘I heard the rumour you’d be here, so I thought I’d try to up my game a little. You know I always liked to kick your butt in the water.’

‘I don’t remember that happening too often.’

‘Yeah? I’ll have a go at refreshing your memory today.’ Ethan grins as Leo chuckles. ‘You know, mate, all that bullshit in the press about us being rivals. I never liked it.’

Leo’s laughter fades, confusion flitting across his expression.

‘I never liked being pitted against you,’ Ethan presses, looking at Leo earnestly. ‘I know that we… grew apart, but even when we were fighting, I still missed surfing together. When we were groms, you made me want to be better. You and your dad… I learnt a lot from you guys.’ He nods over at Adriano, who responds with a watery smile. ‘My family never got it like you did.’

Leo smiles, folding his arms across his chest. ‘Some good times.’

‘Fuck yeah,’ Ethan says. ‘Some of thebesttimes of my life, catching waves here at Bells with you.’

Leo nods, his eyes twinkling at the memories. ‘Same.’

‘Guess we’re lucky to have today, then,’ Ethan says, lifting his chin. ‘A chance to relive it all. It’s going to be fun.’ He gives Leo a knowing smile. ‘The swell’s looking good.’

‘Yeah, we’ll get some great waves today.’

‘Let’s hope I’ll have priority on the best ones.’

‘I thought we were here to have fun again.’

‘It’s still a competition, mate; don’t get too comfortable.’ Ethan grins. ‘You’ve always been the best surfer I know, the only one to beat. There’s no one I’d rather win against.’

‘There’s no one I’d rather lose to.’

A beat of silence passes as Ethan looks physically moved by Leo’s statement, his eyes glistening. ‘Yeah, me neither.’

‘Whatever happens, I’ve got your back out there.’

Leo holds up his hand again. Ethan grabs it and pulls him in for a hug.

‘Yeah, always mate,’ Ethan says, clapping his back like men do before drawing away.

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