I mean, I can’t help it that my job involves long distance travel – and there’s no way I’m giving that up, not foranyone.
Having wanted to drive big, heavy trucks ever since I was in grade school, I was so happy to get my license and then eventually find The Construction Boys.
The way I see it, if a Daddy wants me to give up my passion then he’s not the right Daddy for me – and not by a long shot either.
Anyway, I don’t want to end up wasting my precious reading time thinking about an imaginary Daddy who may or may not be out there for me.
I take another sip of my hot chocolate and let my mind slip into the world of wolves, bears, and a certain heroic boy who wants to find his mate…
Chapter 2
Trent
So far, I’ve ridden some tasty waves today.
For someone who’s surfed across each and every continent and seen some of the wildest waves you could ever dream of, I’m not easily impressed.
But always knowing that the rain and wind was on its way, I knew that today would bring some wicked tubes to ride – and I wasn’t wrong either.
Sadly though, it’s looking more and more like the weather is going to end up bringing a premature end to my fun – and I’mnotimpressed.
‘You have to be God damned kidding me,’ I say, slapping my hand down on my trusty surfboard as me and my surfy-buddy Ranger paddle in the water. ‘A little rain I can handle, but this isridiculous.’
‘Bro, I don’t even think this is the worst of it,’ Ranger says, casting a wary look over toward the deep, dark clouds that appear to be heading over from the East. ‘Rain is one thing, but those look like storm clouds to me.’
As much as I hate to admit it, I think Ranger’s right.
I’ve surfed in some crazy conditions all over the globe, but I don’t mess with thunder and lightning. Well, I may have done once or twice in my twenties… but I’m forty-six now and a whole ton wiser.
The days of me riskingeverythingto chase a wave are over, and I know that me and Ranger have little option but to swim back in to shore and get ourselves packed up as quickly as we can.
‘Urgh. We’re calling it, aren’t we?’ Ranger says, a resigned and frustrated tone in his voice.
‘Yup,’ I reply, equally unimpressed. ‘But fuck it, we got somekillerwaves under our belts today. It’s not like it was a total wash-out.’
‘True, true,’ Ranger replies, flashing his wicked smile and blue eyes in my direction before he begins to paddle back to the wet sand and not so dry land.
As I’m paddling back alongside Ranger, I feel grateful to have surfed at all. After all, not many people are able to live their lives so freely and go on road trips to chase a wave.
I know I’m one of the lucky ones.
But that said, sometimes you make your own luck – and a big part of that for me was making some very solid investments when I was working in the city and bringing home a big salary.
While my office colleagues were out spending their sales bonuses, I was investing my money in property and quietly building up a portfolio that lets me live me life how I do now.
Every day is an adventure for me.
I wake up in the morning and I don’t know which state I’ll be in by midday. Sometimes I surf local, but sometimes I’ll find myself travelling for eight hours just to find the most radical wave.
Most of my colleagues from my old city days are probably a lot richer than me now. Had I stayed on the corporate ladder I might have had a lot more money and lived in some fancy penthouse.
But that’s just not what I wanted. And that’s cool.
My old colleagues can do them, and I’ll keep on doingme.
Anyway, with this rain coming down harder by the second I know that the last thing I should be doing is reminiscing on my old life. I need to live in the moment and haul my ass off this beach and into the safety of my SUV.
‘Yo, Ranger, let’s sprint,’ I say, whipping my surfboard up and carrying it underneath my arm. ‘We’ll dry off in the car and try and find a spot to get some coffee and maybe a slice of pizza.’