Page 21 of Keeping Kama

Tilting his head toward her, Derek met her eyes. “I remember being with my dad. And I remember feeling happy and loved.” His voice faded away, and Derek turned back toward the ocean. “Do you think we should try and catch this next wave?” He pointed.

Leia glanced out at the ocean. The wave coming was only a couple hundred yards away. With a shrug, Leia said, “Sure. I think it looks like a good one.”

The wave came near. Leia paddled away from him and ready herself on her board. As she concentrated on the approaching wave, Leia assumed Derek was doing the same. Seconds away, Leia held her breath as the perfect moment to catch the wave came. Up she sprung on her surfboard, riding it perfectly the entire way to the shore.

Once on the safety of the shore, Leia glanced out at the water looking for Derek. He must have waited for a different wave because she didn’t spot him. Then out of nowhere, Leia noticed him, riding the next wave like a champ. He wasn’t a liar. Derek did surf. And well. Leia’s insides did a somersault.

Derek reached the water’s edge, finding his footing, he made his way toward her with his surfboard under his arm. Running a hand through his hair, Derek shook his head, freeing some of the water from it.

Once within earshot, Leia asked, “Were you trying to show off?” She laughed. “Why didn’t you take the wave I did?”

Water cascaded down his temples. Derek swiped at it and replied, “I know. I decided to take the next one. I didn’t want you to see me if I failed to get up.”

Pursing her lips together, Leia replied, “I see.”

“Honestly,” Derek walked further up the sand, plopping down his surfboard beside him. “The wave you took was taller than I thought. I knew it was above my abilities to ride it, so I waited until I saw one, I thought I could ride.”

With a shrug, Leia said, “I thought you rode that wave remarkably well.”

His face lit up, sending a zing down her spine. “You did?” asked Derek.

He looked so sincere, so satisfied with her simple compliment. Leia knew she’d chase that expression repeatedly like an addicting thrill.

“I did.” Shifting toward the water, Leia raised an eyebrow. “Now, are you ready to ride another one? You can’t stop with one.”

Derek picked up his surfboard again. “I’m ready but go easy on me. I think the last wave was only a bit of beginner’s luck. Who knows what I’ll look like on the next one.”

“Nonsense,” said Leia. “Stop being humble.” Shoving him playfully with her free hand, Leia added, “Now show me what you’ve got.”

With a few steps, she moved further into the water. Then Leia waited for Derek to join her. Together, they swam out past the breaking waves again. Once to the calm water, they sat back on their surfboards, waiting for a good wave to come along. One approached; they rode it back to the shore. They repeated this several times without talking. Leia couldn’t remember when she had enjoyed herself more. The comfort of Derek’s presence, the blissful feeling of salt water against her skin, the rush of adrenaline when she stood up on her board, somehow, she wanted to live in this day forever.

After a ride to shore, Derek shook out his dripping hair. Rubbing at his eyes, he asked, “Are you getting hungry? I’d love to take you to breakfast.” He walked out of the water and onto the dry sand of the beach. Plopping his surfboard down, Derek swiped water off his temples with the heel of his hand.

Joining him on the soft, dry sand, Leia placed her surfboard down next to his. Saltwater stung her eyes. Leia used the wrist of her wetsuit to swipe at them. Once the sting subsided, Leia gently tugged her hairband free from her hair.

“I could eat,” remarked Leia.

“Then let’s head out,” said Derek.

Sticking her hairband between her teeth, Leia found his gaze. Gathering up her wet messy strands of hair, she replaced her hairband. Next, Leia reached for the zipper on the back of her wetsuit but struggled to reach it.

Without skipping a beat, Derek closed the space between them. “Here, let me help you.” He motioned for her to turn around. Leia obeyed, shifting her back to him. Derek tugged the zipper the entire way down. “Do you know anywhere good to eat around here?” Derek dropped his hands, stepping away from her.

She wiggled her arms out of the wetsuit, Leia pulled it halfway down to her waist. “There’s a place only a few miles down the road. They have fantastic banana macadamia nut pancakes.” Her stomach growled at the suggestion.

A warm grin spread across his face. “My mouth is watering already. Sounds great,” said Derek.

Derek seized the edge of his zipper without any difficulty. He unzipped it, tugging it down to his waist. Removing the sleeves of his wetsuit, Derek let it hang down around his waist. Leia forced her glance away up toward the parking lot when she caught herself staring at his perfect physique.

“Pancakes it is,” said Leia.

They both bent down and picked up their surfboards, walking back to the parking area. After they placed the boards in the bed of the truck, Leia gripped one hand on the vehicle while she used her other hand to tug down the rest of her wetsuit. Soon, she stepped out of it, Leia tossed it into the back of the truck. Derek struggled to get his wetsuit off. Hopping on one foot, he eventually managed to rid his body of the restrictive material.

With an exasperated look, Derek swiped at his brow and asked, “Why are wetsuits always so much harder to get off than on?” His curious gaze landed on her.

Nonchalantly, Leia shrugged. “I didn’t have any trouble getting mine off.” Puffing up her chest, she put both hands on her hips. “I think it might just be you.”

“Oh, it’s me. Is it?” Derek took one step closer to her. “I find that hard to believe.”

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